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How I fixed my Backup Camera


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#1 RageZro



  • Soul Hamster (Regular Member)
  • 2 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Country:United States
  • State/Province:Ohio
  • City/Area:Cincinnati
  • Year:2012
  • Soul:Plus +
  • Color:Olive Green/Moss

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 02:20 AM

Hello everyone, new guy here to the forum but have owned my Soul since new in 2012.


KIA apparently has a bad reputation for poorly sealed backup cameras which leads to them filling with water and failing. Mine took over 4 years to do that but it has been garage kept so that may explain the length of time it took.


First, I want to apologize for the poor quality photos but I only had my iPhone handy when I did this repair.


Next I want to caution anyone from performing a repair like this even though it is a pretty easy as far as electrical repairs goes. If you have any doubts as to your ability to do this properly then have someone more qualified do this for you if you have any reservations of your being able to do this repair. This is just a guide and I’m not advising anyone to attempt this repair! DISCLAIMER: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!


OK then, I started by determining that it was indeed the camera that has failed and not the head unit.



A quick check with the dealer and they advised me that:


1. If you have lines, jittering screen or flickering on and off then it is 99% most likely your camera has had water get into it.

2. If you camera has gone dark so that your backup screen is only showing the green, yellow and red guidance lines then again it is most likely the camera but could be an issue with the wiring.

3. If your head unit doesn’t even attempt to connect with it then it has a chance of being something wrong with the head unit.


Since just about everything points to the camera then you can see that you have a pretty good chance it’s the camera which is actually the best news out of the 3 possibilities.


Now then if this is your problem then here’s the walk-through of what I did;




Tools I needed:




Assortment of screwdrivers and parts cleaning brushes (available at most auto-stores, mine are from NAPA)



#0 Phillips screwdriver



X Phillips screwdriver


Large common screwdriver (not shown) or body panel removal tool set


Additional tools, etc needed;

1/4" drive ratchet

13mm socket

6" or longer extension

Pocket screwdriver, just be sure it has a narrow blade on it of about 1/8"  to use for scrapping the buildup out of the housing

WD40 or equivalent


NOTE! I made sure the car was TURNED OFF, it wasn’t necessary to disconnect the battery as there isn't voltage to the camera with the key in the off position. To be sure I didn’t accidentally turn on the ignition I removed the keys from the car until I was done to prevent a short.


1. I opened the rear hatch, as you will see there is a small access hatch near the bottom of the door, I removed this by pressing in on the release tab. This gave me a good hand-hold when removing the panel but it is NOT used to just yank the panel off!



2. At this point I removed the hatches interior panel by first removing the (2) Phillips screws located in the corners with the #2 or #3 screwdrivers. Next I used a large common screwdriver and some cheap body panel tools from Harbor Freight to pry the clips loose. The large screwdriver I used had about 10 inches overall length. I pried the panel loose where you see the yellow snaps in the photo of the underside of the panel as seen in the photograph. I just took my time and put the tip of the screwdriver or panel tool next to the snap but not on it when prying it free. I started at the ones closest to where the screws had been by pulling down on the panel at that corner. I found out it takes a little more force the first time this panel comes off.



3. Looking up into the hole on the metal part of the hatch where the small access hatch was I could see the back of the camera with (2) black plastic acorn type nuts holding it to the hatch. I used the 13mm socket on the 6" extension and ratchet to remove the nuts.  (I could have used a longer one I guess, it just has to long enough to reach through the hole to the nut)




3. Now the camera was loose from the car except for the wiring connector, so next I just followed the wire back from the camera to the connector then disconnected the wiring by depressing the tab on the section that's attached to the hatch. At this point I could now remove the camera from the car by pulling it through the hole to the backside of the car.





4. With the camera on a soft towel face down, I removed the (4) Phillips screws you see with the #0 Phillips screw driver, removed the cover off the camera body and disconnected the small electrical connector by simply pulling on it. I set aside the cover with the wiring harness for cleaning later. I found that if the gasket comes loose from both halves then you have to be sure to mark it so you know which way it goes back when you reassemble the halves.




5. There are (2) small Phillips screws (gold colored in the photo) that retain the top circuit board to the lower circuit board. I used the “X” Phillips screwdriver and removed these screws. I had to be sure not to lose the (2) small spacers on the screws that are located under the top board. I found that if you lean the screw away from the board when removing the it then the spacer should stay on the screw.



6. Using my fingers I pulled up on the top board and it simply unplugged from the lower board. I set it aside and now removed the (2) Phillips screws (also gold colored) with the “X” Phillips screwdriver that hold the lower board. I found that you can either pull up to remove the lower board or turn the unit upside-down as it should fall out depending on the level of corrosion that’s surrounding it. This is where I was CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE CAMERA CCD CHIPS “LENS” ON THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THE BOARD! I set this aside with the top board.


7. At this point is where I saw a lot of corrosion in the form of a white powdery substance. Mine was really bad, reminded me of the residue in a salt shaker. This stuff is what is shorting out the camera as it is conductive. HERE IS WHERE I HAD TO TAKE MY TIME CLEANING THIS STUFF OUT!!! Using the small pocket screwdriver, I scraped out as much of the corrosion as I could. TAKING EXTRA CARE WHEN CLEANING THE MAIN HOUSING AS THE LENS WAS STILL IN THE HOUSING (RED REFLECTION IN THE PHOTO). I DIDN’T ATTEMPT TO REMOVE OR CLEAN THE LENS WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN A LENS CLOTH; DO NOT USE WD40 HERE!  I ONLY CLEANED THE WHITE STUFF OUT OF THE HOUSING AS BEST I COULD!




8. I took a new parts brush and lightly sprayed it with the WD40 as a cleaner; I made sure it wasn't dripping. I pinched the bristles so as to stiffen the brush to help remove the white corrosion debris from the boards. I cleaned both sides of the top board and just the non-camera chip side of the lower board. Using another new brush I wiped off as much of the cleaner as I could from the brush so that t was barely wet then cleaned the camera chip side of the lower board taking care NOT to get the brush on the camera chip lens as it might ruin the lens. I DID NOT USE ANYTHING HARD TO DO ANY CLEANING OF THE BOARDS AS IT WOULD HAVE DESTROYED THE BOARDS!


“Cleaned” housing.



Here is the CCD chip board showing the “lens”. The contaminants were mostly removed from the boards which was what was shorting out the camera causing it not to work. I found it impossible to get all of it out of the housing but hope that it will take awhile before it builds up again. Also my camera CCD chips “lens” looked to be a little dirty or streaked from it possibly being accidentally being touched by my finger or from the water getting in there so I took a lens cloth (micro fiber type) and very gently passed the cloth over the lens. Note that I said I just passed it over the chip and not “rubbed” as that had the potential to ruin the lens permanently if it got scratched.



The boards simply snap together electrically by the gold colored connectors in the photo. I started reassembling the camera by putting the lower board back into the housing, being sure to put the screws back as they were (refer to my photo)




Those little spacers were a bit tricky at first but I learned it was easier to start the screw with the spacer on it then put the top board in, just had to be sure the board to board connectors went back together.



The rest of the reassembly was simply the reverse of steps 3 back to 1. When you put the panel back on just be sure to hit it with the palm of your hand where the snaps are located to be sure they reattach. 


My camera worked better than it had since new and the image was much sharper!


It might sound hard but this was not hard to do and I'm not a certified mechanic. It took about an hour with most of the time spent cleaning the camera housing as I didn't want to scratch the lens that you see from the outside of the car. AGAIN! DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THIS LENS AS IT IS SEALED TO THE HOUSING AND YOU WILL END UP BREAKING IT IF YOU TRY.  I just want to be sure that those who have never done anything like this know it can be done if someone takes their time and exercises care as this is the way I fixed the problem.



Edited by RageZro, 18 May 2017 - 02:42 AM.

#2 EnemyAce



  • Soul Hamster (Regular Member)
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  • Country:United States
  • State/Province:Ohio
  • City/Area:Cincinnati
  • Year:2013
  • Soul:Plus +
  • Color:Bright Silver Metallic

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Posted 24 May 2017 - 04:49 PM

Heh, I had the same problem with my backup camera. I was going to try to mount an aftermarket camera in the OEM housing, but I can't find any that are 1/2" in diameter. I should probably try to clean mine as you did, but I'm afraid I may have destroyed it when I took it out.


I'm in Cincinnati, too! I live in the City of Wyoming, off of I-75.

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